A Travelogue in Four Parts
I spent the end of 2012 and the beginning of 2013 in Borneo. These are the notes I took while on the island. A warning: the following account is personal, biased, unedited, and in some places, the truth has been stretched to make for a more interesting read.
In the previous entry, the reader found that the roads of Borneo are congested with government-subsidized low-end sedans and that the weather is as unpredictable as the narrator’s appetite…
Part III: In which the narrator is challenged physically, mentally and spiritually, and must overcome falsely advertised accommodation, poorly maintained hiking trails, and a night of intoxicated karaoke; in the key of Paul Theroux’s Mosquito Coast with a hint of postmodern guilt and self-effacing irony.
[Note: some people’s names have been changed to protect their identity…]
7 January 2013, 8:26 AM
Borneo wakes up early. The roosters are up before dawn, and so I am too. The air is cool in the morning. But I sleep late and often miss the freshest part of the day. My toe is healing; the hue of red has softened, and I can walk painlessly. We still don’t have internet, and I don’t miss it. I find myself without distraction. With the internet, I’d have people to catch up with, emails to reply to, articles to write, websites to update. But sans the web, I am task-less. I feel liberated. Free from the infinity of the net.
Outside it’s still cool. The calm air, the smell of grass recently cut, birdsong; it’s almost suburban. Everything’s hazy. I don’t know if it’s sunk in yet that I’m not in Kansas anymore. Borneo sprawls, but I close my eyes. Suburban. Borneo is rain forests one day and hypermodern shopping malls the next. We flit from stilted-villages to four-lane traffic jams; from empty beaches to factory outlet stores. From 7-Elevensto roadside fruit stalls. Drive down the road in any direction and you’ll pass dozens of brand new housing estates. In the space between the jungle and the road, the suburbs grow.
It’s a surreal juxtaposition. And above all, Borneo can be defined as an island in transition. From the traditional to the modern – without any regard for longevity, sustainability or character. Tourists pay to walk around an indigenous ‘longhouse’ as the villagers yearn for a plot in a housing complex.
Outside, fringed by rainforest, the suburbs rot. The stench is unmistakable. They rot, but can’t be more than three days old. The houses are only just ‘for sale’, but already the paint is peeling. The gates have yet to be opened, but the locks are rusted shut and there’s bird shit on the doorbell. I walk, for hours, for days, passing the identical estates, watching as they break down, watching as families open the door for the first time; the look of wonder in their eyes, the satisfaction, the dream fulfilled.
One night in Bau we stop to refill our bottles at a water dispenser. There’s a cardboard box, wet from the rain, on the ground. Inside, a kitten (who can’t be more than a few days old) mews. It shivers, pacing the small box. Its skin mottled, fur sparse, nothing to protect it from the world. It won’t last the night, I think. Somebody should do something, I think. But I’ve never really cared for stray animals. I walk away.
And somewhere, in the humid blackness of night, a kitten dies.
10 January 2013, 10:15 AM
Living at the end of the horizon, the beginning of time; straddling the date-line with the dexterity of a Thai whore; waking up to the rooster’s call and bedding down with the enemy near; staring into the jungle with intensity and patience, waiting… Waiting to leave, and waiting to wake up. For the past six weeks I’ve traveled around the island of Borneo (remaining firmly within Malaysian territory, not daring to stir the Indonesian waters or tempt the Bruneian formalism), and for the past six weeks I’ve felt like a traveler. Wayward, unsettled, constant. Each morning was a new place; each evening would be the last. I saw the sites that the guidebook recommended and of course, stubbornly and steadfastly, went out of my way to see the sites yet to be included in the brochures. If there’s a souvenir shop in the area, chances are the place is ‘over.’ If there’s a tour bus and a parking lot that can accommodate tour buses, chances are the place has been rotting for a while. That vicious, acidic, gaseous smell? It’s the odour of newly minted millionaires. It’s the smell of transactions, handshakes and packaged tours.
Try the beaten path, they suggest. They never demand, only suggest: with polarized winks, cocaine-white smiles and an avuncular nudge in the ribs. Look over here, they grin, at the freshly painted café, at the sparkling bathroom, at the wildlife that is ‘accessible’ and ‘photogenic.’ Don’t open your eyes. Paint the scene on your eyelids and go back to sleep. Don’t use your peripherals, they warn, you might wake up.
It’s not fear of the unknown that keeps people from the real world, it’s their apathy. The Age of Apathy – I’ve titled our epoch far too many times. The caged lion is easier to capture on HD video than the wild one. The raw jungle is dirty, hot, and, dangerous (with a capital ‘D’). The ‘rainforest park’ with its concrete paths, gentle railings, and well-placed lighting is easier and far more photo friendly.
I’m not bitter. I’m not even a cynic. It just saddens me to see so many people, so many blank slates, missing out on the wonder of the world. Not the ‘Wonders of the World’ packaged tour: “We’ll take you around the world and back, and have you home in time for Sunday Football.” Not that. ‘Wisdom begins in wonder,’ is how Socrates would begin his lessons, and I fear we are losing the wonder in our lives. Wonder is scary, it’s unfamiliar, it’s something entirely new; it’s standing on the precipice of a deep chasm, not knowing what lies beneath, but ready to dive into the mystery. It’s the space between ignorance and knowledge, the trust that is required to progress from the darkness into the light.
Wonder is not a minibar, an all-hours gymnasium and conference facilities. Wonder is not a seven-day itinerary with convenient stops at ‘authentic’ ‘local’ restaurants. Wonder is not ‘photo friendly’, not clean shoes, not air-conditioning. Wisdom begins in wonder, and wonder begins in the unknown. Wonder is a leap of faith into the bottomless chasm, into a world unfamiliar, into something new.
Wonder is not finding yourself; wonder is losing yourself.
For the past six weeks I’ve been a traveller, but this morning I woke up a resident. There are few adventures ahead of me – I only have ten days left on the island – but I will spend the remainder of my time in Borneo as if I were living here full-time. My father is here for another nine months, and at this point, I might as well be too. There is nothing to suggest that I’m here for a holiday. And I’m not. I live here now. I wake up, eat cereal from a glass bowl, fill the water filter and check the skies. We eat lunch, talk about the day, perhaps watch a film at night, sometimes we swim at the public pool. Tomorrow I will work with a non-profit conservationist group (HOSCAP: Hose’s Civet and Small Carnivore Project) and help redesign and reengineer their website. The weekend is time off. I live. I work. And I do it on the third largest island in the world.
I’m not a traveller, I was never a tourist, and I’m not quite an employee.
However, I am a writer, and I must continue to write where I left off. To continue…
… Sabah was tropical and colourful and looks great on paper. Sabah bursts from travel brochures with azure seas and gentle apes. Sabah is beautiful, and an amazing place to spend ten days in search of swimming beaches and wildlife, but underneath the vibrant surface, there isn’t a whole lot there. Sarawak may not dazzle in the same way as Sabah, but it does have an air of authenticity that the north of Borneo is without. Kuching feels exciting and unpredictable. KK can be summed up by a few well-turned phrases (“bustling fish market” and “vibrant all-hours night life” and “fringed by coastal delights”). The accommodation entries in Lonely Planet for Kuching are slim: there’s the upmarket Hilton, and one or two guesthouses. KK bursts with backpacker lodgings. Both cities are fascinating and well worth a visit, but to me, Kuching has something KK does not: Soul.
Small Chinese noodle house in Bau for breakfast, and then the caves. The Wind Cave is “called Wind Cave because its name in the local language means wind cave.” Figure that out. Bats, spiders, unfinished bridges, and low-flying swiftlets – the Wind Cave wasn’t that interesting. The Fairy Cave was interesting; and like a movie set in the way the green moss shone, the way the stalactites hung, the way the cave mouth gasped. Cinematic. I kneel in front of the titular Fairy statue and feel serene. In the bowels of the cave something stirs, I think.
That night we drive to Freddy’s house for dinner. Freddy is Bidayuh, ethnically indigenous. The Bidayuh encountered the missionaries early on, and thus are devout Christians and speak excellent English. They’re also heavy drinkers. Freddy’s sons run out to meet our car.
The whole family is here tonight. Take your shoes off before you come indoors, they say. This is a God-fearing house, I think I hear someone whisper. A neon crucifix shines bright above the dinner table. A shrine to the Son of God and his impossible mother is set out, carefully, on a shelf to the side.
The neon cross burns. Jesus is watching tonight. It’s all too Fellini-esque: the clash of the religious and the secular, of modern and traditional (MTV is playing on a 42″ flat-screen), the confusion and wooziness of such contrast.
We sit, my whole family, at the dinner table as Freddy’s whole family watches. Amused…
“Make yourself at home.”
… They say.
Glasses are filled with Tiger beer, cheap box wine (plonk), cheaper whiskey. I sip… and warm alcohol floods my throat. My glass is immediately refilled. “Drink!”
Freddy’s favourite film is The Expendables 2.
When the Karaoke machine is turned on, suddenly everyone becomes Elvis. They swing their hips, croon like the King himself. Of course they all know every lyric. I don’t remember the flow of events that night, but individual moments stick out. Singing a duet of Let It Be on karaoke with my father. Clapping along to Tom Jones, Hank Williams, Kenny Rogers. Freddy singing Blue Christmas over and over, getting better and better, as he gets drunker and drunker. Fried chicken wings, potato salad, frozen wedges, and rice wine.
I must have been asleep.
On December the eighteenth we went to Bako National Park and saw proboscis monkeys, macaques, bearded pigs, Australian families, expensive water, bored guides, tired children, loud Brits and loud Americans. We walked for six hours and arrived at a disappointing waterfall that was too dirty to swim in. At night, we walked down a boardwalk with a park ranger who showed us three different varieties of stick insects and not much else. If the jungle comes alive at night, then we didn’t see it.
On December the twenty-first, the world ended.
Except it didn’t. Of course it didn’t. On the day that the Mayans did not say the world was going to end, or should I say, on the day that an over-zealous historian falsely predicted the apocalypse, my father and I began our adventure. Our adventure, as a couple of putihs, is an important aspect of this travelogue, and so I will outline it with necessary detail.
December 21st to December 24th
Our journey begins at 6:30 AM in Bau. We didn’t pack the night before, so we throw a few shirts into a bag, and drive towards the coast. Lundu is the last big town before the seaside and we stop for ‘laksa’ and ‘kolo mee’ – simple noodle dishes that are common breakfast foods. Lundu is a charming city, with character. With a grand mountain range as a backdrop and a national park right on its doorstep (home to the largest flower in the world, the ‘raflesia’), it should be a popular tourist destination. But it isn’t. We stick out like aliens, like white devils. After we eat, we search for the post office because my father has a letter that requires some haste. Finding the post office, and then figuring out how the mail system worked is our first adventure. For sometimes the greatest adventures in a foreign country are the mundane, everyday tasks that we take for granted. There is beauty in the ordinary, the unexpectedness of entirely commonplace activities can be thrilling. Sending a letter, paying a bill, catching a bus, these can be as foreign as the mammals and foliage and vistas that make for postcard fodder. While a photo of the interior of a post office is perhaps less interesting than a portrait of an orangutan, the experience of sending a letter can end up being far more memorable than encountering a primate.
From Lundu we drive to Sematan, a tiny (one-main-street) seaside village that looks out over the South China Sea. Our destination is across the rough expanse of water, Tanjung Datu National Park, the least-visited reserve in Sarawak and, according to lore, one of the most beautiful. But it would be a long time before we arrived at the park. There was still adventure to be had.
Upon arrival in Sematan we wander to the wharf, and begin our search for a fishing boat to take us to Telok Melano, a village across the bay and the beginning of the Tanjung Datu trail. It is possible to charter a boat to take you directly to the national park, but where’s the fun in that. And, more importantly, it costs around seven hundred ringgits (around 280NZD). And, even more importantly, because it is ‘landas’ (stormy) season, there are very few, if any, boats that will take you around the headland to Tanjung Datu. Getting to Telok Melano was our primary concern. Once there, we could stock up on food and easily walk to the park.
Nobody knew anything about fishing boats coming in from Telok Melano, but they all were eager to help get us a chartered boat. “My friend has very good boat for you sir. Very good price. Only eight hundred ringgit.” The men hanging around the wharf give us all kinds of conflicting information, that the park is closed, that a friend would be coming very soon, that a man named Shakur drives a boat from Telok Melano to Sematan everyday. We try and communicate with the men, with fractured Bahasa Malay, but struggle and fail to get the message across. We hand the local men our phrasebook and they laugh at the greetings and expressions: “Help, I am being robbed!” must mean something funny in Malay.
In Lonely Planet, there is an address for the Sematan Fisheries Office, and we figure they would have a good idea about the boat situation. At the very least they could tell us if the park is open. Finding the Fisheries Office is a mission in itself, not because of the heat, but because of, once again, very conflicting information from locals: “Oh yes, the office is just down the road a little bit” to “I think the office is back in Lundu” to the expected “I do not know, but my friend will give you very good price for chartered boat.”
Eventually we find it. (To get to the Fisheries Office: from the jetty walk 200m away from the sea, then take a left at a small dirt road. The office is upstairs in a blue building – you will see a fish logo and some official looking placards). Inside the office we meet Ray (Mohammed) who speaks fluent English and promises to help us find a boat. Ray has a degree in Civil Engineering but because of the global recession he cannot find a job, so he answers phones at the Fisheries Office to pay off a student loan.
We walk back to the wharf, with Ray and three others (perhaps they worked at the office, but likely they were just some friends). We stand back as they speak with men hanging around and women who look like they’re waiting for something. A boat perhaps? No. There is only one boat coming that day (captained by Shakur and Jeffery) and it is full; full of passengers and supplies for the village. Telok Melano is on the border of Indonesia (Kalimantan), and the villagers sell goods from Sematan to the Indonesian villages nearby. Each morning a boat from Telok Melano comes to Sematan. It drops off and picks up passengers (in this way it is a kind of ferry) and fills up with all kinds of goods from the Sematan market (there is no market in Telok Melano). Then in the afternoon the boat goes back to the village, where the goods are unloaded and distributed to be sold to people from Telok Melano, and at markets in Kalimantan (where basic supplies like butter and eggs and cigarettes are far more expensive).
We don’t know any of this information yet. We only know that we won’t be going to Telok Melano today.
Tired, hot, and somewhat defeated, we seek refuge at an open-air food court (at stall number six, Ray’s favourite). An old man sitting down at a table in front of the stall greets us with a loud “Selamat Datang!” He gestures for us to join him and so we sit down with Haji, an eighty-four year-old man who earned his name by making the pilgrimage to Mecca. A ‘Haji’ is a man of the upmost respect, and our new friend certainly has stories to tell. Of course, he cannot not speak English, so we communicate through drawings, hand gestures and vocal tones. We learn: Haji prays five times a day, he is in possession of rare Japanese currency that he is eager to sell to us (only ten dollars!), and that he saved two Australians during WWII, (he was thirteen at the time).
He invites us to stay at his house for the night – we thank him for his kindness, pay for his lunch, and get up to leave, but not before Haji tries to sell us a boat ride to the national park (only two hundred dollars!) We figure we will stay at the Sematan Hotel tonight, and try to secure a boat to Telok Melano in the morn. The prospect at spending a night with the hustling, talkative, pushy Haji does not seem terrible, but it feels hard. To cool off we swim at the Palm Beach Resort infinity pool that overlooks the sea. It’s dirty, full of screaming children, and incredibly refreshing. Later, when retelling this story, we’re asked why we didn’t just stay at the Palm Beach Resort; it’s not expensive, we’re told, and it has the best restaurant in Sematan. At the time, the thought didn’t even cross our minds. We were after adventure. We welcomed a challenge. We expected complications. A night at a resort (no matter what the price) did not factor into our plans. We were explorers, venturing to a little-known destination, not holidaymakers.
After drying off, we drive to the local hotel.
To say it had seen better days would be like saying Miles Davis is pretty good with a trumpet. An understatement. And misleading. This place had likely lived through at least three wars, and looked as if hadn’t been redecorated since the first one (the first war, that is). It didn’t have a ‘No Vacancy’ neon sign and didn’t need one. You don’t ask if a place like this has an available room, you ask if it has a working toilet. It bore the expected ruin of a shabby hotel: threadbare carpeting with stains that shouldn’t be investigated, dirty brown wallpaper that might’ve once been white, a door marked ‘entertainment room’ that was padlocked and rusted shut, a toilet that worked, but only sometimes.
The room itself was not terrible; it was far from good, but still a fair distance away from really bad. There was a broken television and a spitting air-conditioning system. There was a bathroom with a broken mirror and a spitting showerhead. The used syringes on the bedside table come free, I imagined someone saying.
A night at Haji’s seemed to be the safer option. The devil you know, and all that.
We meet Haji at his house around six in the evening. A sign out front read Minyak (“Petrol”) and he has to move his equipment aside for our car to pass. His house is basic, a barbed-wire fence outlined the perimeter, and upstairs we find his ‘home stay’ area. Really it’s just a big empty room with a small bedroom (read: cell) off to one side and a bathroom (read: bucket of water and hole in the ground) at the end.
But still, it’s the experience we were after, not comfort, and Haji was promising to be solid anecdotal material; a storyteller’s gem, crumpled face, eccentric mannerisms and all. After bringing in our bags (a duffel bag with clothes and shoes each, plus a daypack) and organizing our gear in preparation for an early morning departure, we drive to a nearby food court and follow Haji to his usual table. The old man saunters through, with a swagger that reads ‘I’ve got two putihs with me, what’ve you got?’, and he orders for all of us: nasi goreng ayam and iced lemon tea. There’s less talking than at lunch, and after trying to organize another chartered boat for us (along with attempts to sell us more Japanese artefacts), Haji goes quiet. We eat in silence. The rice is dry, the tea watery.
I sleep surprisingly well that night considering the fact that there’s only a small table fan to cool the sauna-size chamber. I wake up in a room with no lighting fixture and for a moment I imagine that we’ve been kidnapped… We head back to the wharf, eat breakfast at number six with Haji and pay him for a night’s accommodation. After handing over forty ringgits, Haji looks disappointed. No, he says, it is fifty ringgit. When we assure him that we all agreed on twenty a person for one night’s stay, he takes the money, doesn’t even attempt to pay for his food, and speeds away on his motor scooter. We never see Haji again.
Now we wait, watching the jetty for activity, scanning the horizon for a fishing boat, sipping kopi susu. Tired, but alert. Ready for adventure, ready to get the hell out of Sematan. At eleven o’clock we get into a fishing boat, headed for Telok Melano. Success. The driver, Gondol (or Camil, depending on who you asked) quickly agreed to a price of thirty ringgits a head and let us on-board. It’s a typical fishing boat, filled with eggs, sugar and petrol. There are only two other passengers (Indonesians) plus the driver and his team of three. The trip takes seventy minutes, and the sea is calm for most of the way. We figure that Gondol will drive with caution because of all the eggs that he’s carrying.
The sky opens up and it starts to pour ten minutes away from the Telok Melano shore. The low tide means a beach landing is necessary, and we arrive at Telok Melano in heavy fits of torrential rain. Soaked, we run up to a shelter at the top of the beach, and wait for the others to drag the boat in. Guiltily, we run back down to the beach to help push the boat up to higher shores.
It was a moment to remember, an event that can be isolated and stored for future reflection: soaking wet, shirt off, on a rarely-visited beach, pushing a fishing boat to higher ground with ten or so other villagers.
From the beach, a wild-eyed man with neither shoes nor teeth escorts us to a home stay. We stay at the house of Mohammed (the village chief, though we don’t know this when we first arrive at his house) and his large and friendly wife, plus a little girl who was either his niece, or a daughter of a friend. Aulya was her name, and though her teeth were rotting, she had a beautiful smile.
Mohammed’s house is a storage juxtaposition of modern and traditional (like all of Borneo): he has two 42″ flat-screens and wireless internet, yet his toilet is broken and over-flowing and the walls are covered in peeling, tawdry wallpaper. The house is built on stilts with tiny bedrooms and an under-equipped kitchen, yet Mohammed and his wife have smart phones, and cable television.
We explore Telok Melano in the evening, walk the sweeping beach fringed with tall coconut palms, wander the single dirt road that makes up the village (admire the large school, that seems far too big), then return to the house. Twenty-minutes away is the border of Indonesia, but we’re told that foreigners are not welcome there so we keep our distance.
Tanjung Datu National Park is a two-hour hike away.
That night we sit amongst a village meeting. Three times a year the village elders gather to discuss important affairs, and we just so happened to be staying at the chief’s house on the night of a meeting. On the deck, sitting on the wooden slats, we share coffee and biscuits, and discuss (in Manglish: Malay/English) the difficulties that the village faces, the government’s role in encouraging tourism in the area, and the differences between Malay and Indonesian culture.
I sleep terribly due to the humidity and the fact that the house is powered by a generator, which turns off at midnight. No fan means no sleep. I open the window to let in a faint ocean breeze, but there is mosquito screen, so I have to burn a coil. In the morning I am covered in insect bites.
We wake early, eat breakfast in the dark and leave to Tanjung Datu before eight. Mohammed’s wife packed us a lunch, and stupidly, it’s the only food we bring to the park with us. Compared to the frustration and difficulty of getting to Telok Melano, the trail to the national park is easy. A steep and poorly sign-posted 1 hour 45 minute walk, through thick jungle, above a dramatic shoreline.
By the time we arrive at the Park HQ it’s hot and humid and we’re soaked with sweat. The main park area of Tanjung Datu is set in a large, grassy field. There’s a new building that will eventually act as an education centre and lounge area. There are at least 10 rooms, all with fans and windows. We’re the only putihs in the park. A Sarawak Forestry ranger meets us and, with limited English, shows us to a room. When we ask the price, he shrugs, mumbles something about ‘off season’ and walks away. It seems that we’ll be sleeping freely tonight.
Our day at the park is relatively quiet compared to the previous days’ adventures. We explore the trails, walk down the isolated beach – a fantastic beach with giant boulders that stick out in a Jurassic manner; the jungle spills onto the shore – and swam. The waves are big and the water too warm, but it’s refreshing and a much needed clean after three days without a shower. We body surf and lie on the sand and feel so damn satisfied.
It’s said that you can never truly appreciate food until you have starved for many days. I would like to contend that you cannot truly appreciate a destination until you have toiled and struggled and worked hard to get there. I imagine the tourist who charters a boat from Sematan and comes directly to the national park. Would he really be able to appreciate the beauty of this place? I think not.
In the evening we see a flock of hornbills, the official bird of Sarawak and a Borneo icon, fly low along the beach. The birds are huge and their wings make a loud flapping sound as they glide overhead.
I think: I got my adventure. I got my jungle walk. I carry scars… new scars.
That night we sit downstairs and watch Indonesian television with the Park Ranger (Indra) and another park employee. We’ve eaten all of our food from Mohammed’s wife, and now we’re eating some old crackers, given to us by our new friends. We learn from the two park officials that we are the first guests at Tanjung Datu in three months. Though we’re hungry as we go to bed, the feeling of satisfaction and fulfilment is overwhelming: we made it to the park that so many people fail to reach.
The next morning we rise before dawn, as we have to make it back to Telok Melano by 8:30 AM, in order to catch the boat back to Sematan. We start out on the trail, but have to stop because it’s so dark. In the daylight the path was difficult to navigate, by moonlight it’s impossible. We start again slowly as the sun peaks over the horizon. We try the beach, thinking it will be a faster route back to the village. We stumble around the rocky headland, skinning knees, grazing hands, until we eventually come to a point where we cannot go any further. The sun rises across the water. From the rocks we watch the sky burn, we watch the clouds turn a dark shade of orange, we listen to the waves beat against the shore. Tired, defeated, we are forced to retrace our steps and find our way back to the path. We refuse to accept the fact that we are very close to missing the boat. It is Christmas Eve and the boat leaving at 8:30 would be the final one going to Sematan for at least three days.
We hurry back to the village. And of course, like all great stories, we make it back just in time. We say goodbye to both Mohammeds, and speed back to Sematan. It’s funny, just one day earlier we arrived at Telok Melano as strangers, now we were leaving as friends and special guests of the chief. What a difference 24 hours can make.
Back on the mainland, we eat breakfast at a Chinese noodle house and take a moment to relax. We head back to Haji’s, nervous that the old man would try to hustle us to pay for the parking (even though we had agreed that he would let us park there for free if we spent a night at his house). He’s not home, so we thank his wife and promptly get the fuck out of there. I don’t remember the drive back to Bau.
Later that day, we go for a swim at a public swimming pool. It’s a fantastic ‘water park complex’ with a large infinity pool, an Olympic-sized lap pool, and world-class diving boards. I tread water and allow my body to stretch and smooth out the aches of the past three days. A shower wouldn’t have been enough to clean off the grime and sweat and intensity of the whole journey – I needed to be fully immersed in water, entirely submerged, every pore drenched and cleansed. I didn’t shower before diving into the pool, and three days worth of dirt gathers on the surface of the water; the filth swirling in eddies around me. The adventure is over, but my body will ache for the remainder of my time in Borneo.
Writer and adventurer Lukas Clark-Memler lives in Madison, Wisconsin and may be reached at firstname.lastname@example.org.